10 Ways to Even Better MPG

By: Jerry Smith

When gas prices started to skyrocket last year, you probably felt pretty smug about owning a fuel-efficient motorcycle. You rode past filling stations where SUV owners stood emptying their wallets into gas pumps, and you grinned like a cat with a fresh mouse. This year, though, with gas topping $4 a gallon you’re a bit less smug, and maybe a bit more worried as each tank of gas you put in your bike eats up all of a $20 bill and part of another one. Suddenly, even getting 40 or 50 mpg doesn’t seem so comforting.

 

But you might be surprised to learn you aren’t already getting the best gas mileage you can. By checking a few of your bike’s components, and changing a few of your own habits, you can stretch each gallon of gas even further than you already do, and bring that grin back to your face.

 

1. Check your bike’s tire pressure. In addition to negatively affecting handling and braking, underinflated tires cause drag that wastes gas. You should check tire pressure at least once a week, and before every long ride. A good way to remind yourself to do this is to write your front and rear tire pressures on a piece of tape and stick it to the inside of your windscreen, or on the handlebar, anywhere you can see it from the saddle.

 

2. Check your motorcycle’s air filter. A dirty air filter decreases gas mileage. But motorcycle manufacturers don’t always make it easy to check the air filter—on some models it seems as if you could build another bike with the pile of parts you have to take off—so many stay in service well past their useful life. A gradual drop in gas mileage is a good tip-off that it’s time to burrow in there and have a look. If you replace the filter, be sure to write down the mileage and the date so you’ll know when it’s time to check it again.

 

3. Gear up. Add a tooth to your countershaft sprocket, or take a couple of teeth off your back sprocket. The higher the final-drive gearing, the fewer revs your engine turns at any given rpm compared to stock. This is especially effective if you commute on your motorcycle, or spend a lot of time on the highway in top gear. Acceleration will suffer a bit, but the increase in mileage will make up for it.

 

4. Short shift. When you’re going up through the gears, don’t hold each one all the way to redline. Shift early whenever you don’t need quick acceleration. This isn’t to say you should lug the engine. Instead, find the lowest part of the powerband where the engine runs smoothly and pulls strongly, and shift before the tach needle swings out of that zone. Fewer revs equal better mileage.

 

5. Synch the carbs. If your bike has more than one carburetor, make sure they’re all working in concert instead of against each other. Ideally, all the carbs feed the engine the same amount of fuel/air at a given rpm as the others. If one “leads” the others, or “lags,” gas mileage suffers. A ragged, inconsistent, or wandering idle is often a sign that the carbs need to be synched.

 

6. Lube your bike’s chain. A dry chain causes drag and friction, decreasing gas mileage. A drive chain is essentially a series of machined bearing surfaces. Even O-ring chains, which have lubricating grease sealed into the space between the pin and the bushing, need a shot of lube on the unsealed rollers now and then to keep them rolling smoothly and to reduce wear. Make sure you shoot some lube on the rear sprocket teeth, too.

 

7. Adjust the chain. A loose chain uses engine rpm to take up its slack instead of turning the rear wheel. A tight chain increases drag on the driveline, making the engine work harder and use more gas.

 

8. Go easy on the throttle. Accelerate smoothly away from stops. Pretend you have a very nervous passenger behind you who’s afraid of falling off the back of the bike. And don’t “blip” the throttle at stops.

 

9. Use your motorcycle for errands. If all you need is a loaf of bread and a quart of milk, take your bike, and put the groceries in your saddlebags. If what you need to get can fit in your jacket pocket or a backpack, there’s no reason to take the car.

 

10. Buy the right gas. If you’ve read the owner’s manual that came with your motorcycle, you’re probably in the minority. You might be surprised to learn you don’t need to feed your ride premium gas.

 

 

Posted with permission from the October 2008 issue of Rider ® www.ridermagazine.com. Copyright 2009, Affinity Group Inc. All rights reserved. For more information about reprints from Rider, contact Wright’s Reprints at 877-652-5295.

Originally published in the October 2008 issue of Rider Magazine

Street Braking: Braking Techniques for Street Riding

Most riders would agree that while the sensation of speed on a motorcycle is exhilarating, stopping quickly, efficiently and safely is absolutely essential. To promote effective braking, Honda has incorporated a number of advances in braking technology: disc brakes, multiple-piston brake calipers, Combined Braking Systems (CBS), Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS) and Combined ABS for sport riders.

However, a number of motorcycles still feature manual braking systems that place a premium on effective rider operation. In short, even with the many technological braking aids available, the operator will always remain the key component for effective stopping. So, to review some braking basics and also cover some finer points of braking on the street we turned to three-time AMA Superbike Champion Reg Pridmore. Reg has been conducting riding schools for more than a quarter of a century, helping thousands of riders to gain better operational techniques for improved motorcycle control. We met up with Reg and he agreed to share some of his coaching techniques with us during our interview, and also share information from his book Smooth Riding, which he has developed to help riders gain proper motorcycling skills.

Reg Pridmore:
“The front brake handles almost all the business of stopping, so it’s important to become familiar with the limits of front-wheel braking. Some people may be a bit apprehensive about using the front brake, so explore its use a little at a time, in an upright position. Gradually increase your braking applications. The confidence and safety you will gain will be worth the effort.

Sub: Cover the front brake
“Proper use of the front brake starts with good hand and finger position. Place the right-hand index and middle fingers so they ‘float’ over the top of the front brake lever. In the event of a braking emergency, you don’t want to lose any reaction time reaching from the grip to the brake lever.

Sub: Smooth transitions
“For smooth and stable bike operation, make the front brake and throttle work in harmony during throttle transitions by rocking your hand from the wrist with a gentle rolling motion. I call this the rocking horse motion. You can start practicing this action on a stationary motorcycle, in the garage. Develop a gentle rolling motion with the wrist: from a stop, as you accelerate, gradually release the brake. For slowing, roll off the throttle as you squeeze the brake. This gives the motorcycle much better input than grabbing the brake lever or slamming the throttle closed—actions that can destabilize the bike. This rocking horse movement has a settling effect on the suspension, which is why it’s used so much in racing.

“Static practice is highly recommended to get the timing down for rolling off the throttle, squeezing the brake lever and smoothly stopping; this practice can be done while sitting on your bike in your garage, and it can be very beneficial. Practice the braking steps in this order: First smoothly roll off the throttle and begin gradually applying the front brake, then begin gradually applying the rear brake fractions of a second later, and don’t pull in the clutch until you are just about at a full stop, which allows engine braking to assist your efforts.”

Sub: Use the rear brake too
“I’m a tireless advocate of using the front brake. Nonetheless, I hate it when people tell me they never use the rear brake. Although the front brake does the bulk of the stopping work, the rear brake can supply that last 10 percent of the slowing action, plus it has a stabilizing effect on the chassis. Honda’s Combined Braking System is designed to have exactly this effect. The key to effective rear brake use is to learn its sensitivity. Don’t panic and stab at the rear brake; apply it in a progressive manner. Keep your foot back on the peg, not poised over the rear brake pedal where a panic reaction could cause a problem. Unlike the front brake, where you want your fingers to rest on the lever for instantaneous response, you don’t want the rear brake to be this accessible and you don’t want it to be the primary activated stopper.”

Sub: A note about ABS (Anti-lock Braking Systems)
“ABS is very effective in building confidence, especially for someone who is scared of locking up the wheels. ABS gives riders the confidence to approach this point because you know the system won’t allow the skid to occur. However, as ABS has become more common, I’ve seen that riders have gotten lazy with brake actuation and that the ‘grab and stab’ technique is back, stronger than ever—and that’s not good. Whether or not your bike is equipped with ABS, the key to effective braking is to control your panic when a surprise situation crops up: plug in your brain and use smooth input, like you would without ABS.”

Sub: Practice, practice, practice
“The ability to avoiding panic and applying maximum braking comes only when you develop a plan and put it into practice. You need to practice, especially when you feel you don’t need it. How do you practice braking? First off, pick a safe location. Next, let your imagination take over and create emergency scenarios: What if a car pulled out here? What if I suddenly encounter a patch of gravel? Visualize an emergency stopping point and then use smooth, progressive application of the brakes to bring the bike to a halt as quickly as possible. Then use the same braking point over and over again to see if you can shorten the stopping distance. Experiment with just using the front brake, then just the rear, and then a combination of both, realizing that control should be natural and paramount.

“I recommend that you work toward the limits of braking regularly. If the rear wheel locks up momentarily, you’ll be able to get away with it. With the front, you’ll hear a telltale howling noise as the tire approaches the limits of traction. Become attuned to this, but don’t push it too hard—once the front locks up, you’ll likely crash. It’s a fine line. Know your limits, and operate within them.”

Choosing Your First Motorcycle

Congratulations on getting your motorcycle license! This is a big event—for anyone, but here we’re addressing women riders in particular—and the adventure continues with choosing your first motorcycle as you start off on your way to many enjoyable years in the saddle. Choosing that first bike takes time and research, but that’s all part of the fun. With such a variety of motorcycles available, where do you start looking for the best match for your wants and needs? Finding the bike that keeps you in your comfort zone and is suited for you and your riding style is key. 

Typically, the most important priority for beginning female riders is being able to touch both feet on the ground while straddling the motorcycle. You want to confidently support your bike when stopped, be able to back it out of parking spaces and maneuver it at slow speeds. For short women, seat height is a big factor, but also realize that some bikes have taller seats that are also narrow and thereby compensate for the higher saddle. Or maybe you’d be more interested in a step-through, twist-and-go scooter, which Honda offers in multiple choices spanning 50cc to 600cc. 

The best approach is to spend time at your Honda dealership and sit on a number of motorcycles to see how they fit you. At this stage you may not even know whether you prefer a cruiser over a sportbike, for instance, but when you sit on different bikes to see how the ergonomics (your riding posture on the motorcycle) works for you, you’ll begin developing an idea of what feels right. Sit on the bike, place your hands on the handlebar, reach for the controls and get your feet up on the pegs or footboard. Can you reach and pull in the clutch and brake levers easily? Do your knees/legs bump up against a fairing or part? Is there a windscreen cutting through your line of vision? Do you think the seat will be comfortable enough to spend hours in? And as you contemplate seating comfort, don’t forget to factor in the wind pressure that will be flowing onto your upper torso at higher speeds. 

As you work through your decision-making process, look ahead and think realistically about the type of riding you plan to do, the kind of roads you want to ride and how much time you’ll spend in the saddle. Resist the temptation of falling into the fantasy of thinking, “I want a bike that does everything all the time because I want to ride everywhere”—that kind of enthusiasm is lots of fun, but doesn’t always lead to practical decisions! Generally, sportbikes have more aggressive ergonomics, cruisers have more relaxed ergonomics and may be easier to attach luggage to, tourers have greater comfort and saddlebags for stowing, and adventure bikes have taller seats and are more versatile but lack full wind protection at highway speeds. Read reviews in magazines and online, join forums and talk to your Honda dealer. Talk to other riders because their experiences can help point you toward the right bike for you—if your Honda dealership has a rider’s club, that’s a great way to meet experienced riders who will be more than happy to lend assistance. 

In general, it’s better to start out riding a smaller-displacement bike and work your way up, rather than struggling with a bike that’s out of your league. Such an overambitious choice may zap your confidence and dull the joy of riding. So choose a bike that’s well suited for both your body build and level of experience. Obviously, a petite 5-foot woman is going to have a different opinion of the ideal first bike than a 6-foot woman with some meat on her bones. Lightweight, smaller bikes are easier to maneuver and will build up skill and confidence. 

The beginner-friendly 125cc Grom, Rebel CMX250C and CBR250R are excellent, affordable choices to hone skills and gain experience. The Grom starts at $2999, while the 250s feature MSRPs just over $4000. The new Grom has yet to be rated, but the Rebel and CBR250R boast test MPGs of 84 and 77, respectively—they’re all truly transportation bargains and also loads of fun! (Honda's fuel economy estimates are based on EPA exhaust emission measurement test procedures and are intended for comparison purposes only. Your actual mileage will vary depending on how you ride, how you maintain your vehicle, weather, road conditions, tire pressure, installation of accessories, cargo, rider and passenger weight, and other factors.) The sporty single-cylinder CBR250R has more horsepower, a higher seat and weighs more at 357 pounds, while the parallel-twin Rebel cruiser’s 26.6-inch seat will have most women confidently straddling a bike flat-footed at stops. Both bikes are powerful enough for highway speeds and have enough acceleration for dealing with traffic. The CBR250R comes in a version with ABS (Anti-lock Braking System), technology that’s especially valuable for beginning riders who may be more likely to grab a big handful of brake during a rapid stop. If you’re thinking you want to keep your adventure going when the pavement ends, the versatile dual-sport CRF250L at $4499 has a test MPG of 73, although it does have a higher seat in keeping with off-road motorcycle performance parameters. 

If you’re shopping for a bike with more performance than a 250cc, take a look at Honda’s trio of parallel-twin CB500s priced at under $6000. These bikes, which weigh in the low 400s, are offered in models that include naked, sport and adventure-style versions. Seat height moves up to 30.9 inches (the adventure model is 1 inch taller) but because they feature a slim seat on a slim bike, these models also should be a good alternative for shorter riders to check out. 

Bump it up 200cc and Honda’s CTX700 line has riders nestled into a low 28.3-inch seat on a good all-around bike that is particularly appropriate for beginner riders when equipped with the optional fully automatic Dual-Clutch Transmission and ABS. The CTX has a compact engine with a super-low center of gravity, and a relaxed riding position with forward-set controls and footpegs. While these bikes also are offered with a manual six-speed, the DCT version is a huge plus for newbies, as it lets the bike do the shifting for you unless you select the “paddle shifter” function that allows you to shift gears with the press of a handlebar-mounted button—sans manual clutch manipulation. The DCT allows riders to focus more on riding and less on the simultaneous manipulation of various controls, which can be a true blessing. Along those lines of thought, as you progress in your riding capabilities, Honda offers several bikes in choices of manual or DCT automatic transmissions ranging from 700cc to 1200cc. 

Many women gravitate toward cruisers not only because of their stylish looks, but also because they feature low seats. The 750cc Shadow line of bikes are excellent alternatives for those who want a cruiser with a low seat height, as they range from 25.7 to 29.4 inches in saddle height. The Shadows are also good choices because of the way mass is distributed down low and their abundant low-end torque simplifies riding away from stops. 

Here are a few more tips: A bike with adjustable suspension allows you to set it up to work for your weight and riding conditions. Compare the test MPGs of the bikes you’re interested in if getting a more fuel-efficient bike is especially important to you, and check into insurance rates before purchasing the bike. Buying used has its advantages such as a lower price tag, while buying new means it’s all yours, and you’ll also get a warranty for peace of mind. Your Honda dealership is a great place to shop, as it can offer attractive financing packages whether you buy new or used. 

With so many choices and styles available, choosing your first bike can seem a bit daunting. But just relax and have fun during this stage of your adventure—you’ll find the right motorcycle for you. To each her own; it’s about what works for you. 

Cheers! Here’s to many happy and safe miles in the saddle.

Riding in the rain

Hello everyone. This is Jon again from Whittier Fun Center. I thought that today, I'd write about a topic that always comes up when talking about riding a motorcycle. It's one of the biggest worries involved with a commuter motorcycle, or is it?

Every time I tell someone that I ride a motorcycle, they always have the same questions. One of those questions is what I do when it's raining. Well that's simple. I ride. For me, my motorcycle is really my only mode of transportation. Sometimes I have a car available, but most times I do not.

The biggest fear of riding in the rain is that the roads are slippery, especially during the first rain, when all the oils are coming up off the road. Another concern, if not a fear, is the potential to be completely drenched by the time you get to where you're going.

When riding in the rain, there's a few things that you want to keep in mind to stay safe:

• First, yes, the roads are very slippery. Even the slightest blip on the throttle could send you somewhere you don't want to go. That's why it is very important that you want to roll on the throttle as smooth as possible. You don't want any jerky movements in your hands. The biggest deal is taking off from a light or stop sign. Be extra careful for painted crosswalks. Take off slowly and smoothly as if you have nowhere to go. 

• Second, always ride the dry path. What I mean by this is that if possible, ride in the tracks of the car or bike in front of you. What happens is their tires grab the water and throw it outward, thus creating a mostly dry surface. You will be able to grip better and have better response when doing this.

• Thirdly, try to pick up some rain gear. It's always good to have water resistant gear on during a wet ride. For those of you like me with open face helmets, if you wear a mask, don't breath too hard as it will be soaked and act as a suffocation device. Also, water resistant gear will allow you to be more comfortable and you'll also be dry when you get to where you're going .

• Lastly, and this is a personal preference, but it works, is to have some sort of yellow headlight at your disposal. I like to use yellow headlights because they cut through rain and fog and just about anything that hinders your vision with a normal bulb. The factory halogen or HID might not be as effective, as they shine the light off of whatever is in front of you, rather than cutting through it. I wouldn't suggest ALWAYS running a yellow bulb, but to have it as a high beam or fog light. 

These have been my suggestions about riding in the rain. I hope it helps some of you out or opens your eyes to it a little bit more. Thank you for reading.

If you have any questions about riding in the rain, feel free to contact me. My information is down below.

Jonathan Salas
Internet Sales
Whittier Fun Center
14043 E. Whittier Blvd
Whittier, CA 90605
(562)945-3494 x19
internetsales@wfuncenter.com

2014 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R review by Cycle World

Bigger is definitely better when it comes to engine displacement in the middleweight supersport class. Kawasaki is once again convinced that formula is the ticket to sales success in a market segment in which only European manufacturers Ducati (848 EVO), MV Agusta (F3 675) and Triumph (Daytona 675) have recently been willing to take risks. In the case of the 2013 ZX-6R, the modest bump in engine capacity from 599 to 636cc feels like all the difference in the world when you open the throttle.

This isn’t the first time that Kawasaki has broken with tradition and built an oversize 600: Between 2003 and ’06, the company also produced a 636cc ZX-6R. But unlike this latest version, the original 636 achieved its displacement increase via 2mm larger bores than its 599cc predecessor.

I got plenty of practice on both street and track during a two-day press launch in Northern California that included laps at Thunderhill Raceway and on the twisty mountain roads above Chico.

Although sales of Japanese 600cc sportbikes have recently taken a big hit, Kawasaki says the ZX-6R has been a consistent seller and is predicting that the new machine will be its second-most-popular model in 2013. To help its product stand out in a class inhabited by so many strong contenders, Kawasaki not only bumped up displacement by stroking the existing four-cylinder engine but also totally revised the twin-beam aluminum chassis and introduced the most sophisticated electronics package found on any Japanese supersport.

Superior performance is guaranteed to get you noticed, and I only needed a few seconds in the saddle of the ZX-6R at Thunderhill to appreciate the engine’s newfound torque. When learning a new racetrack, you have to figure out your shift points and the ideal gear for each corner. In most places, the 6R gave me the option of either screaming or lugging the engine. At times, carrying a taller gear out of a corner and letting the midrange torque pull me through to the next section of track was a better option than keeping the tachometer needle hovering between 15,000 rpm and the engine’s 16,000-rpm rev limit.

In fact, options are something that the ZX-6R has in abundance. The new electronics package offers four traction-control settings (including Off) and two power-output choices, plus available ABS, endowing the midsized Ninja with perhaps the best rider-aid system available on a middleweight supersport.

On the racetrack, I preferred Full power and TC 1 (least intervention), which provided exceptional drive with a bit of a security net. The following day on the street ride in the nearby mountains, I found that TC 2 was the most confidence-inspiring in the chilly conditions without taking away too much performance. Low power mode delivers identical performance up to roughly 7000 rpm, at which point output is clipped to 80 percent of Full—ideal for rainy or slick surfaces.

Beginner's Buying Guide

Hi guys. This is Jon from Whittier Fun Center. I thought that I would give my two cents on what to consider when buying your first bike, as I had done it about a year and a half ago, and have since had 2 others bikes. I will share my experiences.

Now, I had never ridden before, dirtbikes or anything. I didn't have the desert childhood that a lot of kids had. We didn't go to the dunes or to the track to race or anything. I had always wanted to, but my dad had gotten hurt at work early in my childhood, so that wasn't an option. Therefore, when I was thinking about buying my first bike, I had no idea what to expect. I find that this is actually the case with a lot of people, whether they have ridden before or not. Riding and buying are two VERY different things.

When first thinking about buying a motorcycle, what I suggest is to do A LOT of research. Think about the general type of bike you're thinking about getting your hands on. Whether it be a scooter, cruiser, sportbike, or standard, you want to find out as much as you can so that you have a pretty solid idea of whether or not it's the right choice for you. I knew I wanted a sportbike at the time, so what I did was I went and looked at a lot of forums and reviews on different bikes to get the general idea of what I was getting myself into.

The next thing that you want to do after you've figured out what you THINK is the best bike for you, is to go to as many different dealers as your area offers. Go to small and big dealers and talk to the people who work there to get their opinions and stories to see if they have any input that would be useful to you. I also highly suggest sitting on every bike you can to get an idea of what is the perfect height and seating position for you.

Please note that although you may want one type of bike, another one may be better suited for you. What I mean by this is that you could say to yourself that you want the biggest baddest sportbike on the market, but your body may tell you that it would much rather have a nice soft cruiser. You'll know the differences when you actually sit on the bikes.

Once you've done that, narrow down your choices to what suits your needs at that point. Think about everything that you're going to be using the bike for. It could be for weekend fun, short jaunts around town, commuting, or full on 1,000 mile tours. This also must play a role in your ultimate decision. When I was shopping around, I knew that the motorcycle I chose was going to be my primary mode of transportation for both work and weekend fun. I had a 20 mile freeway commute one way, so I needed something semi-comfortable, but then I also LOVED to run the canyons in my spare time, so I also needed something that could handle very well and be beat to death and still be reliable. At that point, I knew it had to be a sportbike. Based on the fact that my commute was on the freeway and I had the need for speed, I knew for a fact that I couldn't justify buying a 250cc motorcycle. Don't get me wrong, they're great for learning and I suggest that the highest to people wanting to learn, because they're easy to learn with and retain their resale rate. But as I would be jumping into riding it about 3 or 4 days later, I knew I had no time to "train". I needed something that was agile, for lane splitting, and that had enough power to pass quickly if I needed to. I then narrowed it down even further to a middleweight 600cc bike. I actually came to Whittier Fun Center as I knew it was so close to my house just to look around. Jay was the salesman that came to me and he helped me through everything, knowing that I had no experience. He pointed me over to a used 2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R. He informed me that the man that had previously owned it basically just drove it in a straight line on the street to work and back and that's it. Good to know, because I was sure that the bike had been cared for. He walked me all around the bike and taught me everything I needed to know to get started. I sat on it and got a feel for the riding position and I was quite happy. It fit my body very well, and I knew it would be a good fit.

After I got the bike home, I took a break and about an hour later I took it out to start learning. I had a rough first few minutes, but once I actually got started, I couldn't stop. I rode around all day and taught myself everything I needed to know for when I actually got out to really using it. I felt so proud of myself for having the control and patience to take all the time I did to make sure I knew exactly what I wanted. It really payed off.

So basically, when you're going out to buy your first bike, don't go into it blind. It's beneficial to you to do quite a bit of research on what you want. Take it from me. When you actually know what you're looking at when you walk into a dealer, it makes it a lot easier to make a quicker decision on exactly what you need.

I hope this helps any new buyers out there. If you have any questions about buying your first bike, go ahead and shoot me an email at internetsales@wfuncenter.com and I'd be happy to help you with whatever you need. Thanks for reading!

-Jonathan Salas

New To Personal Watercraft? Check Out The ABCs of PWCs

New To Personal Watercraft? Check Out The ABCs of PWCs

Are you considering buying a personal watercraft (PWC) as your first boat or adding one to your existing fleet? Whether you’re a newcomer to the incredible boating lifestyle or you’re a seasoned veteran, there are some key differences between PWCs and other types of boats. But with these tips, you’ll be off of the dock and having fun on the water in no time.

Narrow Down Your Options

There are lots of fantastic new models on the market (and hundreds of older models still ready for use), so let’s take a few minutes to narrow down your options by figuring out who will be riding, how you’ll be riding, and where you’ll be riding.

There are several basic categories of PWC. Stand-ups provide a single rider with freedom and maneuverability, while two and three seaters allow for more comfortable cruising.

Find Your Perfect Fit

• Styling — Of course, the first thing many of us will be drawn to is the way a PWC looks, whether that’s at a boat show, a dealer’s showroom, or out on the water. Look for styling that fits YOUR particular style, whether that’s flashy or slightly more conservative.

• Seating — You might not think so, but there’s a pretty big difference in the way each one of the PWC manufacturers configure their seating. The first hands-on test should be to climb up and see if the boat fits you properly. If all goes as planned, you’ll be spending a lot of time in this spot, so if anything feels awkward to you now, that feeling will be magnified as time goes on.

• Ergonomics — After the seat, your handlebar will be the part of the PWC you’ll have the most contact with. Most models today come with adjustable positions (for safety as well as comfort), so see if you can tweak everything so it feels effortless to sit in that position with your hand on the throttle. Once you get that squared away, make sure you can easily see your gauges and switches. Also, make sure you take the time to stand up in the footwells…it should feel natural and comfortable with your hands on the handlebar.

• Versatility — Depending on how you will primarily use your PWC, there are some things to consider. If you’ll be using the boat to tow tubers and wakeboarders, make sure you have plenty of horsepower, a good aft-facing spotter seat with grab handles, and an oversized mirror for the driver. If you’re looking for transportation out to your cottage or to get to your favorite camping island, your top selling points will be fuel capacity and storage. Typical riders may swoon at convenient amenities like cupholders, easy-to-climb boarding ladders, and soft non-skid decking.

• Innovations — More and more these days, some of the key differences among manufacturers are the innovative solutions they are coming up with to solve some of the issues common to all PWCs. The biggest one of course (true for all boats, actually) is braking. Various braking solutions are now being developed, and that will be a hotbed of creative thinking over the next few years. Off-throttle steering is another big feature that continues to be refined, since up until recently, you lost all steering control when you released throttle. If you’ll have riders of all different skill levels driving your PWC, perhaps consider a speed-limiting system that will keep inexperienced drivers from going too fast too soon. An easy-to-operate reverse control is also something you’ll find yourself using more than you think…especially when docking.

Honda Pioneer Side by Side Development

2014 Honda Pioneer Development

TIMMONSVILLE, SC – June 26, 2013 – (Motor Sports Newswire) – With the introduction of the 2014 Pioneer 700 and Pioneer 700-4, Honda ushers in an exciting new generation of side-by-side off-road machines. These brand-new two-person and four-person Pioneer models not only replace the highly respected Big Red in the Honda lineup, they also kick off a whole new phase of Honda side-by-sides, with more exciting Pioneer models to come in the future. For this debut these two Pioneer machines, designed by Honda Research and Development in Ohio, and built at Honda South Carolina (using domestically and globally sourced parts), have plenty to offer off-road enthusiasts who like to use their machines to work hard and play hard while also bringing folks along for the ride.

Creation of the Pioneer models began with an all-new chassis formed around Honda’s proven 700cc-class liquid-cooled OHV single-cylinder four-stroke engine coupled to a unique automotive-style automatic transmission. This brand-new chassis incorporates a long-travel suspension system for a smooth ride over tough terrain, and the distinctive, all-new bodywork comes standard with integrated doors and headrests. The ability to carry hefty loads over many different kinds of challenging terrain also ranked high in design priority, as well as the ability to tow big loads. And perhaps best of all, these two machines deliver fantastic value, slotting into the popular, rapidly expanding multi-purpose category of side-by-sides with the two-person Pioneer 700 at $9,999, while the Pioneer 700-4 starts at $11,699—about the same neighborhood where some competitor two-seat machines live. Bottom line: once again, Honda is offering innovative new models packed with Honda’s fabled quality, fit and finish at a superior value.
One of the big attractions of the Pioneer 700-4 is its convertible seating arrangement; it can be quickly and easily converted from two-seat to three-seat or four-seat configurations and back to an open load-carrying bed without the use of tools—an industry first. Each of the two rear seats simply tilts up out of the bed structure with the release of a latch and locks into place, converting to three-person or four-person capabilities depending on the needs at hand. The rear passengers can also easily access the three-point seat belts, which are located up on the Roll Over Protection Structure (ROPS) where they stay out of the way when not in use. And when the seats are folded in the down position, the bed maintains its full tilting functionality.

The tough and durable heavy-duty steel frame used by both Pioneer models features a wheelbase just slightly longer than the Big Red’s—76.8 inches versus 75.7 inches—yet overall length has been reduced just a pinch and overall width is narrower by nearly three inches to make the Pioneer models more compact with  more agile handling. This new configuration also gives the Pioneer a tight 14.8 feet turning radius and there’s plenty of ground clearance available—10.3 inches. However, perhaps the most telling specification focuses on suspension travel: both new models deliver comfortable and well-controlled 7.9 inches of travel via double-wishbone independent front suspension system, while the double-wishbone independent rear suspension system (IRS) provides a full 9.1 inches of travel for excellent off-road capabilities.  The twin rear shocks are adjustable for spring preload, so it’s easy to adjust the rear suspension for added comfort during recreational use, then quickly ramp up the spring preload when it’s time to carry heavy loads. With this 2.0-inch gain in travel at both ends, these new Pioneer models deliver an appreciably plush ride whether it’s on the trail or at the jobsite. In addition, both versions of the Pioneer 700 also feature new front tires sized 25 x 8-12. These new tires help give the Pioneer improved steering feel and more agile steering response.
Another very significant innovation involves a new engine mount system developed specifically to help tune out vibration and produce a noticeably smoother ride. Thanks to a newly developed engine-mounting subframe and accompanying vibration-isolating bushings, every contact point for the driver and passenger—steering wheel, handholds, floor, seat bottom and seat back—now transmit noticeably less engine vibration. The result is markedly improved comfort and a newly elevated, high-quality feel.

Both Pioneer models are powered by Honda’s proven 675cc liquid-cooled OHV single-cylinder four-stroke four-valve engine with Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) for spot-on fuel metering under a wide variety of operating conditions. This muscular yet smooth-operating powerplant delivers strong acceleration and good top speed, and it’s coupled to an automotive-style Honda automatic transmission that features a hydraulic torque converter, three hydraulic clutches and an Electronic Control Module (ECM) to automatically select one of three forward gears and one reverse gear. The ECM monitors throttle opening, vehicle speed, engine rpm, gear selector position, brake application and engine oil temperature for optimum performance. Also, on downhill slopes the transmission provides positive engine braking that supplements the hydraulic disc brakes for slowing power, technology that is superior to side-by-sides with electronic engine braking systems that can result in inconsistent performance in real-world conditions.
New to the Pioneer models is a dual shift-mapping program that automatically selects between two transmission shifting modes—either Cruise or Sport mode—for optimum shift timing depending on the driver’s pattern of throttle operation. During aggressive use, the Sport mode kicks in and holds the transmission in gear longer before shifting to deliver more aggressive performance. During more casual operation, the Cruise mode allows the transmission to shift up sooner for more casual performance and extended range from the Pioneer’s 8.2 gallon fuel tank. All in all, the driver enjoys optimum performance—automatically.

To convert all that power into terrain-grabbing traction, both Pioneer models feature full-time true 2WD for improved traction. Thanks to a new rear-wheel drive setup that now incorporates a non-differential rear end—one related to the setup used on Honda ATVs equipped with IRS—the Pioneer delivers superior drive characteristics. When the going gets especially tough, a handy gearshift selector makes it easy to positively engage the 4WD mode, and there’s also the option to engage the front differential lock for maximum pull.
In keeping with the design of all Honda side-by-sides and ATVs, the Pioneer forgoes a belt-style transmission for the more positive automotive-style automatic transmission and durable shaft-drive design.
When it’s time to load up the Pioneer and get to work—whether it’s supplies and tools on the job or an entire camping setup for a multi-day backwoods trip—both the Pioneer 700 and Pioneer 700-4 are more than up to the task. The versatile tilt-bed is rated for an outsized 1000-pound hauling capacity, plus the Pioneer offers an impressive 1500-pound towing capacity. Multiple D-rings on the bed and wall of the cargo area provide convenient tie-down points for securing cargo while underway—a welcome convenience.

Both versions of the Pioneer abound with Honda’s distinctive attention to detail: Redesigned 37.5 watt headlights provide a more even distribution of light for driving after dark; an improved air intake system is more resistant to ingestion of dust and water; a higher AC generator output—from 410 watts on Big Red to 450 watts—provides power for added accessories; increased fuel capacity adds greater driving range; a larger-capacity, sealed glove box provides more room to pack items, and much more. There’s also a full line of Honda Genuine and Signature Accessories—over 50 different items—allowing owners to configure their Pioneer to meet their specific needs.
It all adds up to an innovative Pioneer duo that meets the widely varied needs of off-road recreational users, hunters, outdoor-oriented families, hard-working job sites, and everything in between. The new 2014 Pioneer 700 and Pioneer 700-4 deliver a whole new level of side-by-side capabilities along with incomparable Honda quality and value.

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Kawasaki KX250F gets Launch Control for 2014

Publish Date: 

Jun 21, 2013

IRVINE, Calif. - The 2014 Kawasaki KX250F features the Launch Control system found on its larger sibling.
Kawasaki has updated both the KX250F and (less so) the KX450F for 2014. The motocross models will hit showroom floor in mid-July, when Kawasaki will announce pricing.
Launch Control is a first for a 250-class motocross bike. The system maximizes available traction, increasing a rider’s ability to get good starts.
The KX250F’s technology also includes a plug-and-play adjustable ECU, a Separate Function Fork (SFF), new motor mounts, revised suspension tuning and an upgraded transmission.
KX250F improvements, according to Kawasaki:

• The high-tensile steel front-engine mount plates are 29 percent thinner than last year’s steel plates and offer a better mix of chassis rigidity, improved feedback and front-end grip.
• The KX250F’s transmission gears feature four dogs instead of three, for enhanced shift smoothness.
• The shift-fork grooves are more direct to enhance feel at the shift lever.
• The counter-shaft and sprocket retainer design now uses a nut and washer instead of a clip, for a more positive sprocket-to-countershaft interface and simplified sprocket swaps.
• An upgraded crankcase oil jet delivers a stream of oil to the underside of the piston, for enhanced cooling.
• Revised throttle body tuning improves airflow from a closed-throttle, for a smoother idle and enhanced low-end response.
• Revised piston tuning in the left fork leg enhances damping performance through the initial and midstroke.
• Revised rear shock settings provide a more comfortable “baseline” for a wide range of riders.
• Grips feature shorter barrels and are made from a softer material to enhance rider comfort.

The 2014 KX450F is equipped with narrower grips that Kawasaki claims are softer and more comfortable. In addition, the model’s intake cam features slightly less lift, to promote better low-rpm throttle response. The bike's front master cylinder features a knocker-style lever-to-piston interface for improved brake feel and more consistent performance compared with the old piston-type unit

Tom and Dave's 2 1/2 day 1000 mile adventure to Lone Pine and Death Valley