10 Ways to Even Better MPG

By: Jerry Smith

When gas prices started to skyrocket last year, you probably felt pretty smug about owning a fuel-efficient motorcycle. You rode past filling stations where SUV owners stood emptying their wallets into gas pumps, and you grinned like a cat with a fresh mouse. This year, though, with gas topping $4 a gallon you’re a bit less smug, and maybe a bit more worried as each tank of gas you put in your bike eats up all of a $20 bill and part of another one. Suddenly, even getting 40 or 50 mpg doesn’t seem so comforting.

 

But you might be surprised to learn you aren’t already getting the best gas mileage you can. By checking a few of your bike’s components, and changing a few of your own habits, you can stretch each gallon of gas even further than you already do, and bring that grin back to your face.

 

1. Check your bike’s tire pressure. In addition to negatively affecting handling and braking, underinflated tires cause drag that wastes gas. You should check tire pressure at least once a week, and before every long ride. A good way to remind yourself to do this is to write your front and rear tire pressures on a piece of tape and stick it to the inside of your windscreen, or on the handlebar, anywhere you can see it from the saddle.

 

2. Check your motorcycle’s air filter. A dirty air filter decreases gas mileage. But motorcycle manufacturers don’t always make it easy to check the air filter—on some models it seems as if you could build another bike with the pile of parts you have to take off—so many stay in service well past their useful life. A gradual drop in gas mileage is a good tip-off that it’s time to burrow in there and have a look. If you replace the filter, be sure to write down the mileage and the date so you’ll know when it’s time to check it again.

 

3. Gear up. Add a tooth to your countershaft sprocket, or take a couple of teeth off your back sprocket. The higher the final-drive gearing, the fewer revs your engine turns at any given rpm compared to stock. This is especially effective if you commute on your motorcycle, or spend a lot of time on the highway in top gear. Acceleration will suffer a bit, but the increase in mileage will make up for it.

 

4. Short shift. When you’re going up through the gears, don’t hold each one all the way to redline. Shift early whenever you don’t need quick acceleration. This isn’t to say you should lug the engine. Instead, find the lowest part of the powerband where the engine runs smoothly and pulls strongly, and shift before the tach needle swings out of that zone. Fewer revs equal better mileage.

 

5. Synch the carbs. If your bike has more than one carburetor, make sure they’re all working in concert instead of against each other. Ideally, all the carbs feed the engine the same amount of fuel/air at a given rpm as the others. If one “leads” the others, or “lags,” gas mileage suffers. A ragged, inconsistent, or wandering idle is often a sign that the carbs need to be synched.

 

6. Lube your bike’s chain. A dry chain causes drag and friction, decreasing gas mileage. A drive chain is essentially a series of machined bearing surfaces. Even O-ring chains, which have lubricating grease sealed into the space between the pin and the bushing, need a shot of lube on the unsealed rollers now and then to keep them rolling smoothly and to reduce wear. Make sure you shoot some lube on the rear sprocket teeth, too.

 

7. Adjust the chain. A loose chain uses engine rpm to take up its slack instead of turning the rear wheel. A tight chain increases drag on the driveline, making the engine work harder and use more gas.

 

8. Go easy on the throttle. Accelerate smoothly away from stops. Pretend you have a very nervous passenger behind you who’s afraid of falling off the back of the bike. And don’t “blip” the throttle at stops.

 

9. Use your motorcycle for errands. If all you need is a loaf of bread and a quart of milk, take your bike, and put the groceries in your saddlebags. If what you need to get can fit in your jacket pocket or a backpack, there’s no reason to take the car.

 

10. Buy the right gas. If you’ve read the owner’s manual that came with your motorcycle, you’re probably in the minority. You might be surprised to learn you don’t need to feed your ride premium gas.

 

 

Posted with permission from the October 2008 issue of Rider ® www.ridermagazine.com. Copyright 2009, Affinity Group Inc. All rights reserved. For more information about reprints from Rider, contact Wright’s Reprints at 877-652-5295.

Originally published in the October 2008 issue of Rider Magazine

Street Braking: Braking Techniques for Street Riding

Most riders would agree that while the sensation of speed on a motorcycle is exhilarating, stopping quickly, efficiently and safely is absolutely essential. To promote effective braking, Honda has incorporated a number of advances in braking technology: disc brakes, multiple-piston brake calipers, Combined Braking Systems (CBS), Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS) and Combined ABS for sport riders.

However, a number of motorcycles still feature manual braking systems that place a premium on effective rider operation. In short, even with the many technological braking aids available, the operator will always remain the key component for effective stopping. So, to review some braking basics and also cover some finer points of braking on the street we turned to three-time AMA Superbike Champion Reg Pridmore. Reg has been conducting riding schools for more than a quarter of a century, helping thousands of riders to gain better operational techniques for improved motorcycle control. We met up with Reg and he agreed to share some of his coaching techniques with us during our interview, and also share information from his book Smooth Riding, which he has developed to help riders gain proper motorcycling skills.

Reg Pridmore:
“The front brake handles almost all the business of stopping, so it’s important to become familiar with the limits of front-wheel braking. Some people may be a bit apprehensive about using the front brake, so explore its use a little at a time, in an upright position. Gradually increase your braking applications. The confidence and safety you will gain will be worth the effort.

Sub: Cover the front brake
“Proper use of the front brake starts with good hand and finger position. Place the right-hand index and middle fingers so they ‘float’ over the top of the front brake lever. In the event of a braking emergency, you don’t want to lose any reaction time reaching from the grip to the brake lever.

Sub: Smooth transitions
“For smooth and stable bike operation, make the front brake and throttle work in harmony during throttle transitions by rocking your hand from the wrist with a gentle rolling motion. I call this the rocking horse motion. You can start practicing this action on a stationary motorcycle, in the garage. Develop a gentle rolling motion with the wrist: from a stop, as you accelerate, gradually release the brake. For slowing, roll off the throttle as you squeeze the brake. This gives the motorcycle much better input than grabbing the brake lever or slamming the throttle closed—actions that can destabilize the bike. This rocking horse movement has a settling effect on the suspension, which is why it’s used so much in racing.

“Static practice is highly recommended to get the timing down for rolling off the throttle, squeezing the brake lever and smoothly stopping; this practice can be done while sitting on your bike in your garage, and it can be very beneficial. Practice the braking steps in this order: First smoothly roll off the throttle and begin gradually applying the front brake, then begin gradually applying the rear brake fractions of a second later, and don’t pull in the clutch until you are just about at a full stop, which allows engine braking to assist your efforts.”

Sub: Use the rear brake too
“I’m a tireless advocate of using the front brake. Nonetheless, I hate it when people tell me they never use the rear brake. Although the front brake does the bulk of the stopping work, the rear brake can supply that last 10 percent of the slowing action, plus it has a stabilizing effect on the chassis. Honda’s Combined Braking System is designed to have exactly this effect. The key to effective rear brake use is to learn its sensitivity. Don’t panic and stab at the rear brake; apply it in a progressive manner. Keep your foot back on the peg, not poised over the rear brake pedal where a panic reaction could cause a problem. Unlike the front brake, where you want your fingers to rest on the lever for instantaneous response, you don’t want the rear brake to be this accessible and you don’t want it to be the primary activated stopper.”

Sub: A note about ABS (Anti-lock Braking Systems)
“ABS is very effective in building confidence, especially for someone who is scared of locking up the wheels. ABS gives riders the confidence to approach this point because you know the system won’t allow the skid to occur. However, as ABS has become more common, I’ve seen that riders have gotten lazy with brake actuation and that the ‘grab and stab’ technique is back, stronger than ever—and that’s not good. Whether or not your bike is equipped with ABS, the key to effective braking is to control your panic when a surprise situation crops up: plug in your brain and use smooth input, like you would without ABS.”

Sub: Practice, practice, practice
“The ability to avoiding panic and applying maximum braking comes only when you develop a plan and put it into practice. You need to practice, especially when you feel you don’t need it. How do you practice braking? First off, pick a safe location. Next, let your imagination take over and create emergency scenarios: What if a car pulled out here? What if I suddenly encounter a patch of gravel? Visualize an emergency stopping point and then use smooth, progressive application of the brakes to bring the bike to a halt as quickly as possible. Then use the same braking point over and over again to see if you can shorten the stopping distance. Experiment with just using the front brake, then just the rear, and then a combination of both, realizing that control should be natural and paramount.

“I recommend that you work toward the limits of braking regularly. If the rear wheel locks up momentarily, you’ll be able to get away with it. With the front, you’ll hear a telltale howling noise as the tire approaches the limits of traction. Become attuned to this, but don’t push it too hard—once the front locks up, you’ll likely crash. It’s a fine line. Know your limits, and operate within them.”

Choosing Your First Motorcycle

Congratulations on getting your motorcycle license! This is a big event—for anyone, but here we’re addressing women riders in particular—and the adventure continues with choosing your first motorcycle as you start off on your way to many enjoyable years in the saddle. Choosing that first bike takes time and research, but that’s all part of the fun. With such a variety of motorcycles available, where do you start looking for the best match for your wants and needs? Finding the bike that keeps you in your comfort zone and is suited for you and your riding style is key. 

Typically, the most important priority for beginning female riders is being able to touch both feet on the ground while straddling the motorcycle. You want to confidently support your bike when stopped, be able to back it out of parking spaces and maneuver it at slow speeds. For short women, seat height is a big factor, but also realize that some bikes have taller seats that are also narrow and thereby compensate for the higher saddle. Or maybe you’d be more interested in a step-through, twist-and-go scooter, which Honda offers in multiple choices spanning 50cc to 600cc. 

The best approach is to spend time at your Honda dealership and sit on a number of motorcycles to see how they fit you. At this stage you may not even know whether you prefer a cruiser over a sportbike, for instance, but when you sit on different bikes to see how the ergonomics (your riding posture on the motorcycle) works for you, you’ll begin developing an idea of what feels right. Sit on the bike, place your hands on the handlebar, reach for the controls and get your feet up on the pegs or footboard. Can you reach and pull in the clutch and brake levers easily? Do your knees/legs bump up against a fairing or part? Is there a windscreen cutting through your line of vision? Do you think the seat will be comfortable enough to spend hours in? And as you contemplate seating comfort, don’t forget to factor in the wind pressure that will be flowing onto your upper torso at higher speeds. 

As you work through your decision-making process, look ahead and think realistically about the type of riding you plan to do, the kind of roads you want to ride and how much time you’ll spend in the saddle. Resist the temptation of falling into the fantasy of thinking, “I want a bike that does everything all the time because I want to ride everywhere”—that kind of enthusiasm is lots of fun, but doesn’t always lead to practical decisions! Generally, sportbikes have more aggressive ergonomics, cruisers have more relaxed ergonomics and may be easier to attach luggage to, tourers have greater comfort and saddlebags for stowing, and adventure bikes have taller seats and are more versatile but lack full wind protection at highway speeds. Read reviews in magazines and online, join forums and talk to your Honda dealer. Talk to other riders because their experiences can help point you toward the right bike for you—if your Honda dealership has a rider’s club, that’s a great way to meet experienced riders who will be more than happy to lend assistance. 

In general, it’s better to start out riding a smaller-displacement bike and work your way up, rather than struggling with a bike that’s out of your league. Such an overambitious choice may zap your confidence and dull the joy of riding. So choose a bike that’s well suited for both your body build and level of experience. Obviously, a petite 5-foot woman is going to have a different opinion of the ideal first bike than a 6-foot woman with some meat on her bones. Lightweight, smaller bikes are easier to maneuver and will build up skill and confidence. 

The beginner-friendly 125cc Grom, Rebel CMX250C and CBR250R are excellent, affordable choices to hone skills and gain experience. The Grom starts at $2999, while the 250s feature MSRPs just over $4000. The new Grom has yet to be rated, but the Rebel and CBR250R boast test MPGs of 84 and 77, respectively—they’re all truly transportation bargains and also loads of fun! (Honda's fuel economy estimates are based on EPA exhaust emission measurement test procedures and are intended for comparison purposes only. Your actual mileage will vary depending on how you ride, how you maintain your vehicle, weather, road conditions, tire pressure, installation of accessories, cargo, rider and passenger weight, and other factors.) The sporty single-cylinder CBR250R has more horsepower, a higher seat and weighs more at 357 pounds, while the parallel-twin Rebel cruiser’s 26.6-inch seat will have most women confidently straddling a bike flat-footed at stops. Both bikes are powerful enough for highway speeds and have enough acceleration for dealing with traffic. The CBR250R comes in a version with ABS (Anti-lock Braking System), technology that’s especially valuable for beginning riders who may be more likely to grab a big handful of brake during a rapid stop. If you’re thinking you want to keep your adventure going when the pavement ends, the versatile dual-sport CRF250L at $4499 has a test MPG of 73, although it does have a higher seat in keeping with off-road motorcycle performance parameters. 

If you’re shopping for a bike with more performance than a 250cc, take a look at Honda’s trio of parallel-twin CB500s priced at under $6000. These bikes, which weigh in the low 400s, are offered in models that include naked, sport and adventure-style versions. Seat height moves up to 30.9 inches (the adventure model is 1 inch taller) but because they feature a slim seat on a slim bike, these models also should be a good alternative for shorter riders to check out. 

Bump it up 200cc and Honda’s CTX700 line has riders nestled into a low 28.3-inch seat on a good all-around bike that is particularly appropriate for beginner riders when equipped with the optional fully automatic Dual-Clutch Transmission and ABS. The CTX has a compact engine with a super-low center of gravity, and a relaxed riding position with forward-set controls and footpegs. While these bikes also are offered with a manual six-speed, the DCT version is a huge plus for newbies, as it lets the bike do the shifting for you unless you select the “paddle shifter” function that allows you to shift gears with the press of a handlebar-mounted button—sans manual clutch manipulation. The DCT allows riders to focus more on riding and less on the simultaneous manipulation of various controls, which can be a true blessing. Along those lines of thought, as you progress in your riding capabilities, Honda offers several bikes in choices of manual or DCT automatic transmissions ranging from 700cc to 1200cc. 

Many women gravitate toward cruisers not only because of their stylish looks, but also because they feature low seats. The 750cc Shadow line of bikes are excellent alternatives for those who want a cruiser with a low seat height, as they range from 25.7 to 29.4 inches in saddle height. The Shadows are also good choices because of the way mass is distributed down low and their abundant low-end torque simplifies riding away from stops. 

Here are a few more tips: A bike with adjustable suspension allows you to set it up to work for your weight and riding conditions. Compare the test MPGs of the bikes you’re interested in if getting a more fuel-efficient bike is especially important to you, and check into insurance rates before purchasing the bike. Buying used has its advantages such as a lower price tag, while buying new means it’s all yours, and you’ll also get a warranty for peace of mind. Your Honda dealership is a great place to shop, as it can offer attractive financing packages whether you buy new or used. 

With so many choices and styles available, choosing your first bike can seem a bit daunting. But just relax and have fun during this stage of your adventure—you’ll find the right motorcycle for you. To each her own; it’s about what works for you. 

Cheers! Here’s to many happy and safe miles in the saddle.