Friday, July 26, 2013

Riding in the rain





Hello everyone. This is Jon again from Whittier Fun Center. I thought that today, I'd write about a topic that always comes up when talking about riding a motorcycle. It's one of the biggest worries involved with a commuter motorcycle, or is it?

Every time I tell someone that I ride a motorcycle, they always have the same questions. One of those questions is what I do when it's raining. Well that's simple. I ride. For me, my motorcycle is really my only mode of transportation. Sometimes I have a car available, but most times I do not.


The biggest fear of riding in the rain is that the roads are slippery, especially during the first rain, when all the oils are coming up off the road. Another concern, if not a fear, is the potential to be completely drenched by the time you get to where you're going.

When riding in the rain, there's a few things that you want to keep in mind to stay safe:


  • First, yes, the roads are very slippery. Even the slightest blip on the throttle could send you somewhere you don't want to go. That's why it is very important that you want to roll on the throttle as smooth as possible. You don't want any jerky movements in your hands. The biggest deal is taking off from a light or stop sign. Be extra careful for painted crosswalks. Take off slowly and smoothly as if you have nowhere to go. 



  • Second, always ride the dry path. What I mean by this is that if possible, ride in the tracks of the car or bike in front of you. What happens is their tires grab the water and throw it outward, thus creating a mostly dry surface. You will be able to grip better and have better response when doing this.





  • Thirdly, try to pick up some rain gear. It's always good to have water resistant gear on during a wet ride. For those of you like me with open face helmets, if you wear a mask, don't breath too hard as it will be soaked and act as a suffocation device. Also, water resistant gear will allow you to be more comfortable and you'll also be dry when you get to where you're going .




  • Lastly, and this is a personal preference, but it works, is to have some sort of yellow headlight at your disposal. I like to use yellow headlights because they cut through rain and fog and just about anything that hinders your vision with a normal bulb. The factory halogen or HID might not be as effective, as they shine the light off of whatever is in front of you, rather than cutting through it. I wouldn't suggest ALWAYS running a yellow bulb, but to have it as a high beam or fog light. 


These have been my suggestions about riding in the rain. I hope it helps some of you out or opens your eyes to it a little bit more. Thank you for reading.

If you have any questions about riding in the rain, feel free to contact me. My information is down below.

Jonathan Salas
Internet Sales
Whittier Fun Center
14043 E. Whittier Blvd
Whittier, CA 90605
(562)945-3494 x19
internetsales@wfuncenter.com

Thursday, July 18, 2013

2014 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R review by Cycle World

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R - action left-side view
Bigger is definitely better when it comes to engine displacement in the middleweight supersport class. Kawasaki is once again convinced that formula is the ticket to sales success in a market segment in which only European manufacturers Ducati (848 EVO), MV Agusta (F3 675) and Triumph (Daytona 675) have recently been willing to take risks. In the case of the 2013 ZX-6R, the modest bump in engine capacity from 599 to 636cc feels like all the difference in the world when you open the throttle.
This isn’t the first time that Kawasaki has broken with tradition and built an oversize 600: Between 2003 and ’06, the company also produced a 636cc ZX-6R. But unlike this latest version, the original 636 achieved its displacement increase via 2mm larger bores than its 599cc predecessor.
I got plenty of practice on both street and track during a two-day press launch in Northern California that included laps at Thunderhill Raceway and on the twisty mountain roads above Chico.
Although sales of Japanese 600cc sportbikes have recently taken a big hit, Kawasaki says the ZX-6R has been a consistent seller and is predicting that the new machine will be its second-most-popular model in 2013. To help its product stand out in a class inhabited by so many strong contenders, Kawasaki not only bumped up displacement by stroking the existing four-cylinder engine but also totally revised the twin-beam aluminum chassis and introduced the most sophisticated electronics package found on any Japanese supersport.
Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R - studio left-side view
Superior performance is guaranteed to get you noticed, and I only needed a few seconds in the saddle of the ZX-6R at Thunderhill to appreciate the engine’s newfound torque. When learning a new racetrack, you have to figure out your shift points and the ideal gear for each corner. In most places, the 6R gave me the option of either screaming or lugging the engine. At times, carrying a taller gear out of a corner and letting the midrange torque pull me through to the next section of track was a better option than keeping the tachometer needle hovering between 15,000 rpm and the engine’s 16,000-rpm rev limit.
In fact, options are something that the ZX-6R has in abundance. The new electronics package offers four traction-control settings (including Off) and two power-output choices, plus available ABS, endowing the midsized Ninja with perhaps the best rider-aid system available on a middleweight supersport.
On the racetrack, I preferred Full power and TC 1 (least intervention), which provided exceptional drive with a bit of a security net. The following day on the street ride in the nearby mountains, I found that TC 2 was the most confidence-inspiring in the chilly conditions without taking away too much performance. Low power mode delivers identical performance up to roughly 7000 rpm, at which point output is clipped to 80 percent of Full—ideal for rainy or slick surfaces.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Beginner's Buying Guide



Hi guys. This is Jon from Whittier Fun Center. I thought that I would give my two cents on what to consider when buying your first bike, as I had done it about a year and a half ago, and have since had 2 others bikes. I will share my experiences.


Now, I had never ridden before, dirtbikes or anything. I didn't have the desert childhood that a lot of kids had. We didn't go to the dunes or to the track to race or anything. I had always wanted to, but my dad had gotten hurt at work early in my childhood, so that wasn't an option. Therefore, when I was thinking about buying my first bike, I had no idea what to expect. I find that this is actually the case with a lot of people, whether they have ridden before or not. Riding and buying are two VERY different things.

When first thinking about buying a motorcycle, what I suggest is to do A LOT of research. Think about the general type of bike you're thinking about getting your hands on. Whether it be a scooter, cruiser, sportbike, or standard, you want to find out as much as you can so that you have a pretty solid idea of whether or not it's the right choice for you. I knew I wanted a sportbike at the time, so what I did was I went and looked at a lot of forums and reviews on different bikes to get the general idea of what I was getting myself into.

The next thing that you want to do after you've figured out what you THINK is the best bike for you, is to go to as many different dealers as your area offers. Go to small and big dealers and talk to the people who work there to get their opinions and stories to see if they have any input that would be useful to you. I also highly suggest sitting on every bike you can to get an idea of what is the perfect height and seating position for you.



Please note that although you may want one type of bike, another one may be better suited for you. What I mean by this is that you could say to yourself that you want the biggest baddest sportbike on the market, but your body may tell you that it would much rather have a nice soft cruiser. You'll know the differences when you actually sit on the bikes.

Once you've done that, narrow down your choices to what suits your needs at that point. Think about everything that you're going to be using the bike for. It could be for weekend fun, short jaunts around town, commuting, or full on 1,000 mile tours. This also must play a role in your ultimate decision. When I was shopping around, I knew that the motorcycle I chose was going to be my primary mode of transportation for both work and weekend fun. I had a 20 mile freeway commute one way, so I needed something semi-comfortable, but then I also LOVED to run the canyons in my spare time, so I also needed something that could handle very well and be beat to death and still be reliable. At that point, I knew it had to be a sportbike. Based on the fact that my commute was on the freeway and I had the need for speed, I knew for a fact that I couldn't justify buying a 250cc motorcycle. Don't get me wrong, they're great for learning and I suggest that the highest to people wanting to learn, because they're easy to learn with and retain their resale rate. But as I would be jumping into riding it about 3 or 4 days later, I knew I had no time to "train". I needed something that was agile, for lane splitting, and that had enough power to pass quickly if I needed to. I then narrowed it down even further to a middleweight 600cc bike. I actually came to Whittier Fun Center as I knew it was so close to my house just to look around. Jay was the salesman that came to me and he helped me through everything, knowing that I had no experience. He pointed me over to a used 2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R. He informed me that the man that had previously owned it basically just drove it in a straight line on the street to work and back and that's it. Good to know, because I was sure that the bike had been cared for. He walked me all around the bike and taught me everything I needed to know to get started. I sat on it and got a feel for the riding position and I was quite happy. It fit my body very well, and I knew it would be a good fit.



After I got the bike home, I took a break and about an hour later I took it out to start learning. I had a rough first few minutes, but once I actually got started, I couldn't stop. I rode around all day and taught myself everything I needed to know for when I actually got out to really using it. I felt so proud of myself for having the control and patience to take all the time I did to make sure I knew exactly what I wanted. It really payed off.

So basically, when you're going out to buy your first bike, don't go into it blind. It's beneficial to you to do quite a bit of research on what you want. Take it from me. When you actually know what you're looking at when you walk into a dealer, it makes it a lot easier to make a quicker decision on exactly what you need.

I hope this helps any new buyers out there. If you have any questions about buying your first bike, go ahead and shoot me an email at internetsales@wfuncenter.com and I'd be happy to help you with whatever you need. Thanks for reading!

-Jonathan Salas

Thursday, July 11, 2013

New To Personal Watercraft? Check Out The ABCs of PWCs

New To Personal Watercraft? Check Out The ABCs of PWCs

PWC
Are you considering buying a personal watercraft (PWC) as your first boat or adding one to your existing fleet? Whether you’re a newcomer to the incredible boating lifestyle or you’re a seasoned veteran, there are some key differences between PWCs and other types of boats. But with these tips, you’ll be off of the dock and having fun on the water in no time.
Narrow Down Your Options
There are lots of fantastic new models on the market (and hundreds of older models still ready for use), so let’s take a few minutes to narrow down your options by figuring out who will be riding, how you’ll be riding, and where you’ll be riding.
There are several basic categories of PWC. Stand-ups provide a single rider with freedom and maneuverability, while two and three seaters allow for more comfortable cruising.

Find Your Perfect Fit
• Styling — Of course, the first thing many of us will be drawn to is the way a PWC looks, whether that’s at a boat show, a dealer’s showroom, or out on the water. Look for styling that fits YOUR particular style, whether that’s flashy or slightly more conservative.
• Seating — You might not think so, but there’s a pretty big difference in the way each one of the PWC manufacturers configure their seating. The first hands-on test should be to climb up and see if the boat fits you properly. If all goes as planned, you’ll be spending a lot of time in this spot, so if anything feels awkward to you now, that feeling will be magnified as time goes on.
• Ergonomics — After the seat, your handlebar will be the part of the PWC you’ll have the most contact with. Most models today come with adjustable positions (for safety as well as comfort), so see if you can tweak everything so it feels effortless to sit in that position with your hand on the throttle. Once you get that squared away, make sure you can easily see your gauges and switches. Also, make sure you take the time to stand up in the footwells…it should feel natural and comfortable with your hands on the handlebar.
• Versatility — Depending on how you will primarily use your PWC, there are some things to consider. If you’ll be using the boat to tow tubers and wakeboarders, make sure you have plenty of horsepower, a good aft-facing spotter seat with grab handles, and an oversized mirror for the driver. If you’re looking for transportation out to your cottage or to get to your favorite camping island, your top selling points will be fuel capacity and storage. Typical riders may swoon at convenient amenities like cupholders, easy-to-climb boarding ladders, and soft non-skid decking.

• Innovations — More and more these days, some of the key differences among manufacturers are the innovative solutions they are coming up with to solve some of the issues common to all PWCs. The biggest one of course (true for all boats, actually) is braking. Various braking solutions are now being developed, and that will be a hotbed of creative thinking over the next few years. Off-throttle steering is another big feature that continues to be refined, since up until recently, you lost all steering control when you released throttle. If you’ll have riders of all different skill levels driving your PWC, perhaps consider a speed-limiting system that will keep inexperienced drivers from going too fast too soon. An easy-to-operate reverse control is also something you’ll find yourself using more than you think…especially when docking.

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Honda Pioneer Side by Side Development

2014 Honda Pioneer Development

TIMMONSVILLE, SC – June 26, 2013 – (Motor Sports Newswire) – With the introduction of the 2014 Pioneer 700 and Pioneer 700-4, Honda ushers in an exciting new generation of side-by-side off-road machines. These brand-new two-person and four-person Pioneer models not only replace the highly respected Big Red in the Honda lineup, they also kick off a whole new phase of Honda side-by-sides, with more exciting Pioneer models to come in the future. For this debut these two Pioneer machines, designed by Honda Research and Development in Ohio, and built at Honda South Carolina (using domestically and globally sourced parts), have plenty to offer off-road enthusiasts who like to use their machines to work hard and play hard while also bringing folks along for the ride.
2014 Honda PioneerCreation of the Pioneer models began with an all-new chassis formed around Honda’s proven 700cc-class liquid-cooled OHV single-cylinder four-stroke engine coupled to a unique automotive-style automatic transmission. This brand-new chassis incorporates a long-travel suspension system for a smooth ride over tough terrain, and the distinctive, all-new bodywork comes standard with integrated doors and headrests. The ability to carry hefty loads over many different kinds of challenging terrain also ranked high in design priority, as well as the ability to tow big loads. And perhaps best of all, these two machines deliver fantastic value, slotting into the popular, rapidly expanding multi-purpose category of side-by-sides with the two-person Pioneer 700 at $9,999, while the Pioneer 700-4 starts at $11,699—about the same neighborhood where some competitor two-seat machines live. Bottom line: once again, Honda is offering innovative new models packed with Honda’s fabled quality, fit and finish at a superior value.
One of the big attractions of the Pioneer 700-4 is its convertible seating arrangement; it can be quickly and easily converted from two-seat to three-seat or four-seat configurations and back to an open load-carrying bed without the use of tools—an industry first. Each of the two rear seats simply tilts up out of the bed structure with the release of a latch and locks into place, converting to three-person or four-person capabilities depending on the needs at hand. The rear passengers can also easily access the three-point seat belts, which are located up on the Roll Over Protection Structure (ROPS) where they stay out of the way when not in use. And when the seats are folded in the down position, the bed maintains its full tilting functionality.
2014 Honda Pioneer 700
The tough and durable heavy-duty steel frame used by both Pioneer models features a wheelbase just slightly longer than the Big Red’s—76.8 inches versus 75.7 inches—yet overall length has been reduced just a pinch and overall width is narrower by nearly three inches to make the Pioneer models more compact with  more agile handling. This new configuration also gives the Pioneer a tight 14.8 feet turning radius and there’s plenty of ground clearance available—10.3 inches. However, perhaps the most telling specification focuses on suspension travel: both new models deliver comfortable and well-controlled 7.9 inches of travel via double-wishbone independent front suspension system, while the double-wishbone independent rear suspension system (IRS) provides a full 9.1 inches of travel for excellent off-road capabilities.  The twin rear shocks are adjustable for spring preload, so it’s easy to adjust the rear suspension for added comfort during recreational use, then quickly ramp up the spring preload when it’s time to carry heavy loads. With this 2.0-inch gain in travel at both ends, these new Pioneer models deliver an appreciably plush ride whether it’s on the trail or at the jobsite. In addition, both versions of the Pioneer 700 also feature new front tires sized 25 x 8-12. These new tires help give the Pioneer improved steering feel and more agile steering response.
Another very significant innovation involves a new engine mount system developed specifically to help tune out vibration and produce a noticeably smoother ride. Thanks to a newly developed engine-mounting subframe and accompanying vibration-isolating bushings, every contact point for the driver and passenger—steering wheel, handholds, floor, seat bottom and seat back—now transmit noticeably less engine vibration. The result is markedly improved comfort and a newly elevated, high-quality feel.
2014 Honda Pioneer 700
Both Pioneer models are powered by Honda’s proven 675cc liquid-cooled OHV single-cylinder four-stroke four-valve engine with Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) for spot-on fuel metering under a wide variety of operating conditions. This muscular yet smooth-operating powerplant delivers strong acceleration and good top speed, and it’s coupled to an automotive-style Honda automatic transmission that features a hydraulic torque converter, three hydraulic clutches and an Electronic Control Module (ECM) to automatically select one of three forward gears and one reverse gear. The ECM monitors throttle opening, vehicle speed, engine rpm, gear selector position, brake application and engine oil temperature for optimum performance. Also, on downhill slopes the transmission provides positive engine braking that supplements the hydraulic disc brakes for slowing power, technology that is superior to side-by-sides with electronic engine braking systems that can result in inconsistent performance in real-world conditions.
New to the Pioneer models is a dual shift-mapping program that automatically selects between two transmission shifting modes—either Cruise or Sport mode—for optimum shift timing depending on the driver’s pattern of throttle operation. During aggressive use, the Sport mode kicks in and holds the transmission in gear longer before shifting to deliver more aggressive performance. During more casual operation, the Cruise mode allows the transmission to shift up sooner for more casual performance and extended range from the Pioneer’s 8.2 gallon fuel tank. All in all, the driver enjoys optimum performance—automatically.
2014 Honda Pioneer
To convert all that power into terrain-grabbing traction, both Pioneer models feature full-time true 2WD for improved traction. Thanks to a new rear-wheel drive setup that now incorporates a non-differential rear end—one related to the setup used on Honda ATVs equipped with IRS—the Pioneer delivers superior drive characteristics. When the going gets especially tough, a handy gearshift selector makes it easy to positively engage the 4WD mode, and there’s also the option to engage the front differential lock for maximum pull.
In keeping with the design of all Honda side-by-sides and ATVs, the Pioneer forgoes a belt-style transmission for the more positive automotive-style automatic transmission and durable shaft-drive design.
When it’s time to load up the Pioneer and get to work—whether it’s supplies and tools on the job or an entire camping setup for a multi-day backwoods trip—both the Pioneer 700 and Pioneer 700-4 are more than up to the task. The versatile tilt-bed is rated for an outsized 1000-pound hauling capacity, plus the Pioneer offers an impressive 1500-pound towing capacity. Multiple D-rings on the bed and wall of the cargo area provide convenient tie-down points for securing cargo while underway—a welcome convenience.
2014 Honda Pioneer 700-4
Both versions of the Pioneer abound with Honda’s distinctive attention to detail: Redesigned 37.5 watt headlights provide a more even distribution of light for driving after dark; an improved air intake system is more resistant to ingestion of dust and water; a higher AC generator output—from 410 watts on Big Red to 450 watts—provides power for added accessories; increased fuel capacity adds greater driving range; a larger-capacity, sealed glove box provides more room to pack items, and much more. There’s also a full line of Honda Genuine and Signature Accessories—over 50 different items—allowing owners to configure their Pioneer to meet their specific needs.
It all adds up to an innovative Pioneer duo that meets the widely varied needs of off-road recreational users, hunters, outdoor-oriented families, hard-working job sites, and everything in between. The new 2014 Pioneer 700 and Pioneer 700-4 deliver a whole new level of side-by-side capabilities along with incomparable Honda quality and value.
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